Day 36 - 8 Miles (Mt. Shasta City, Ca to Some Random Creek)
Getting a hitch out of Shasta City was not as easy as expected. After standing in the hot sun on an exit ramp for an hour I decided my time would better be spent at a nearby Subway ingesting some calories. After gorging I approached everyone in the shopping center parking lot about a ride. I got a lot of well wishers but no takers. Then a friendly lady pointed out that a local bus would get me close to the trailhead.
I hopped on the bus not knowing what I was going to do at the end of the line. A few locals gave me vague directions from the town of Dunsmuir to the trailhead but it still wasn't clear. I got of the bus and just started walking in the right direction. As luck would have it ended up being a straightforward mile and a half. I had to walk on I-5 for a half mile, but at a dead sprint I was able to keep in the flow of traffic.
I hate humidity. The bottom of canyons tend to be humid. Steep climbs out of the base of canyons tend to be the worst. Add in some car noise and Subway-related stomach issues and you have a butt kicker on your hands. I only went 8 miles since it was getting dark. My sleep was restless because of the heat and humidity.
Day 37 - 23 Miles (Some Random Creek to Porcupine Lake)
The long hot climb turned out to be longet and hotter than expected. I gained about 5000 vert today, which even now, so late in the summer, is not trivial. The Castle Crags, some granitic spires that dazzle the skies around here, were showing off their best today.
The headline of the day was chronic chafing. I will not discuss this any further except to say that I have not found any greater pain in all of my travels as that. I almost called it quits in the afternoon but found the strength to keep going.
My spirits were raised considerably when I came across a trail angel's water and food cache mid-day. A few coolers were stocked with ice cold drinks, fruit, and snacks. I am definitely going to be dropping a trail cache like this en route to Crater Lake with Becky.
I met my first "Sobo" today--that is southound hiker. Her name is Fusia and she had started just north of Ashland. She seemed like she was having a good time but kept warning me of the climbs coming up in the next few miles. What climbs? It was gentle and rolling for two days after that!!!
I made it to beautiful Porcupine Lake for camp, and had it all to myself for the night.
Day 38 - 23 Miles (Porcupine Lake to Some Random Ditch)
Chronic chafing continues. Must find solution. Must end pain. Must do something. Anything. Idea. Make a pipe!
Two local shamans from SF had sent me an ancient herbal remedy with Jeff. I had no pipe to smoke it so I made my own MacGyver style. Of all the herbs I have sampled, perhaps that was the most welcome due to the pain I was in. Instant relief. A short while later I dared to try the hydrocortizone I had been carrying for 600 miles. Much better. Love the stuff. Can I smoke that too?
My pain-relieving break was so blissful that it went a tad bit too long. I was hurried to find camp for the night and ended up sleeping in a ditch wedged between some red fir trees. It was soft but far too ditchy in the end to make a good night's sleep.
Day 39 - 23 Miles (Some Random Ditch to South Fork Salmon River)
The scenery was absolutely breathtaking today. This stuff, the Trinity Alps, rivals the High Sierras at times. I was happy to spy the distant range where a bunch of us had an awesome Memorial Day backpacking trip this past May. It got me feeling homesick for my cousins.
I ended up camping next to a old free spirit named Steve from Oakland who had been on the trail a couple of months doing a mild ten to fifteen a day. He was a trip--very funny and witty guy who was eager to make someone laugh. I was a willing candidate.
Day 40 - 22 Miles (South Fork Salmon River to Etna Summit)
Town day. Always important to the thru-hiker. This means food and shower at the end of the rainbow. I made good time today but I was careful to avoid the past mistake of rushing to the finish which would leave me tired and cranky upon completion.
The climbs were tough today. On one section of granite the trail was so steep and hot I started early stages of heat exhaustion: shortness of breath, dizziness, and leprachaun sightings. I stopped for a bottle of water and righted myself.
I met a large youth group from Chico on a church-school-related outing. They ate up all of my advice on lightweight hiking as they were toiling with monster packs.
As I approached the end of the trail today I noticed a sign reading "trail magic" that pointed off to the right of the trail. Another trail angel had stashed a cooler of cold drinks. Thank You!
The hitch into Etna was of course a good story. First car that pulled up was headed the other way but offered me a carrot. No kidding. A second car stopped a short while later, and although they were headed the other way as well, the driver ran over to hand me a can of cold beer. No kidding. A third driver, Rich, pulled up in a truck awhile later and said that he *might* be headed to Etna, depending on whether he could track down his daughter who was driving in from Ashland. He ended up giving me a ride to town and was able find out that she wasn't coming after all!
Once in town I made my way to the Hiker Hut, which is a hostel located on the property of the beautiful Alderbrook Manor. There I was reunited with Jacob, Saltlick, Hot Pants and Reaper--who I had all met earlier on the trail. I also met an annoying chatterbox named Starman. Shut up already.
We grilled out and I enjoyed some heaping plates of grilled salmon, asparagus, baked potato, red peppers, grilled onions, sausages, and beer. Well done.
Day 41 - 0 Miles (Etna, Ca)
Ah. Ben and Jerry's Chocolate Fudge Brownie ice cream for breakfast! I followed that meal up by ordering "The Mess" at a local diner--ham, eggs, green pepper, mushrooms, onions, potatoes, cheddar, sour cream, and a side of biscuits and gravy to boot.
I said goodbye to the other six hitting the trail and spent a good while hanging out at the Hiker Hut. Later on I headed to the Etna Brewing Company for a pint of amber. For a town of a few hundred people this place makes ridiculous beer. I hope they're at Boonville next year.
I'm typing this in the early evening and am getting ready to read and chill out for awhile. The managers of this place offered to give me a hitch to Etna Summit tomorrow morning so that's a score.
Six days to the finish in Ashland!
Saturday, July 28, 2007
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