Day 36 - 8 Miles (Mt. Shasta City, Ca to Some Random Creek)
Getting a hitch out of Shasta City was not as easy as expected. After standing in the hot sun on an exit ramp for an hour I decided my time would better be spent at a nearby Subway ingesting some calories. After gorging I approached everyone in the shopping center parking lot about a ride. I got a lot of well wishers but no takers. Then a friendly lady pointed out that a local bus would get me close to the trailhead.
I hopped on the bus not knowing what I was going to do at the end of the line. A few locals gave me vague directions from the town of Dunsmuir to the trailhead but it still wasn't clear. I got of the bus and just started walking in the right direction. As luck would have it ended up being a straightforward mile and a half. I had to walk on I-5 for a half mile, but at a dead sprint I was able to keep in the flow of traffic.
I hate humidity. The bottom of canyons tend to be humid. Steep climbs out of the base of canyons tend to be the worst. Add in some car noise and Subway-related stomach issues and you have a butt kicker on your hands. I only went 8 miles since it was getting dark. My sleep was restless because of the heat and humidity.
Day 37 - 23 Miles (Some Random Creek to Porcupine Lake)
The long hot climb turned out to be longet and hotter than expected. I gained about 5000 vert today, which even now, so late in the summer, is not trivial. The Castle Crags, some granitic spires that dazzle the skies around here, were showing off their best today.
The headline of the day was chronic chafing. I will not discuss this any further except to say that I have not found any greater pain in all of my travels as that. I almost called it quits in the afternoon but found the strength to keep going.
My spirits were raised considerably when I came across a trail angel's water and food cache mid-day. A few coolers were stocked with ice cold drinks, fruit, and snacks. I am definitely going to be dropping a trail cache like this en route to Crater Lake with Becky.
I met my first "Sobo" today--that is southound hiker. Her name is Fusia and she had started just north of Ashland. She seemed like she was having a good time but kept warning me of the climbs coming up in the next few miles. What climbs? It was gentle and rolling for two days after that!!!
I made it to beautiful Porcupine Lake for camp, and had it all to myself for the night.
Day 38 - 23 Miles (Porcupine Lake to Some Random Ditch)
Chronic chafing continues. Must find solution. Must end pain. Must do something. Anything. Idea. Make a pipe!
Two local shamans from SF had sent me an ancient herbal remedy with Jeff. I had no pipe to smoke it so I made my own MacGyver style. Of all the herbs I have sampled, perhaps that was the most welcome due to the pain I was in. Instant relief. A short while later I dared to try the hydrocortizone I had been carrying for 600 miles. Much better. Love the stuff. Can I smoke that too?
My pain-relieving break was so blissful that it went a tad bit too long. I was hurried to find camp for the night and ended up sleeping in a ditch wedged between some red fir trees. It was soft but far too ditchy in the end to make a good night's sleep.
Day 39 - 23 Miles (Some Random Ditch to South Fork Salmon River)
The scenery was absolutely breathtaking today. This stuff, the Trinity Alps, rivals the High Sierras at times. I was happy to spy the distant range where a bunch of us had an awesome Memorial Day backpacking trip this past May. It got me feeling homesick for my cousins.
I ended up camping next to a old free spirit named Steve from Oakland who had been on the trail a couple of months doing a mild ten to fifteen a day. He was a trip--very funny and witty guy who was eager to make someone laugh. I was a willing candidate.
Day 40 - 22 Miles (South Fork Salmon River to Etna Summit)
Town day. Always important to the thru-hiker. This means food and shower at the end of the rainbow. I made good time today but I was careful to avoid the past mistake of rushing to the finish which would leave me tired and cranky upon completion.
The climbs were tough today. On one section of granite the trail was so steep and hot I started early stages of heat exhaustion: shortness of breath, dizziness, and leprachaun sightings. I stopped for a bottle of water and righted myself.
I met a large youth group from Chico on a church-school-related outing. They ate up all of my advice on lightweight hiking as they were toiling with monster packs.
As I approached the end of the trail today I noticed a sign reading "trail magic" that pointed off to the right of the trail. Another trail angel had stashed a cooler of cold drinks. Thank You!
The hitch into Etna was of course a good story. First car that pulled up was headed the other way but offered me a carrot. No kidding. A second car stopped a short while later, and although they were headed the other way as well, the driver ran over to hand me a can of cold beer. No kidding. A third driver, Rich, pulled up in a truck awhile later and said that he *might* be headed to Etna, depending on whether he could track down his daughter who was driving in from Ashland. He ended up giving me a ride to town and was able find out that she wasn't coming after all!
Once in town I made my way to the Hiker Hut, which is a hostel located on the property of the beautiful Alderbrook Manor. There I was reunited with Jacob, Saltlick, Hot Pants and Reaper--who I had all met earlier on the trail. I also met an annoying chatterbox named Starman. Shut up already.
We grilled out and I enjoyed some heaping plates of grilled salmon, asparagus, baked potato, red peppers, grilled onions, sausages, and beer. Well done.
Day 41 - 0 Miles (Etna, Ca)
Ah. Ben and Jerry's Chocolate Fudge Brownie ice cream for breakfast! I followed that meal up by ordering "The Mess" at a local diner--ham, eggs, green pepper, mushrooms, onions, potatoes, cheddar, sour cream, and a side of biscuits and gravy to boot.
I said goodbye to the other six hitting the trail and spent a good while hanging out at the Hiker Hut. Later on I headed to the Etna Brewing Company for a pint of amber. For a town of a few hundred people this place makes ridiculous beer. I hope they're at Boonville next year.
I'm typing this in the early evening and am getting ready to read and chill out for awhile. The managers of this place offered to give me a hitch to Etna Summit tomorrow morning so that's a score.
Six days to the finish in Ashland!
Saturday, July 28, 2007
Monday, July 23, 2007
Belden, CA to Mt. Shasta City, CA
Day 24 -- 30 miles (Mosley Flat Camp to Butt Mountain)
We finished the climb out of belden the first thing in the morning. water is tough to come by so we filled our bottles up at the pleasant sounding "Poison Spring".
It was fun hiking and talking with Journey (Cheryl). She is from Minnesota and will attend her daughter's wedding in september. Unforuntately she has a bad foot problem that doesn't look like its getting better any time soon. Due to a mail mishap, she also was missing maps for the section, so she needed to hike with someone else.
We got a little bit of rain for the first time in over three weeks of hiking. It was nice and cut the dust on the trail a little bit.
Lassen Peak came into view for the first time today. At 10,200 feet it stands far above other peaks in the area. As I looked at the summit off in the distance I recalled my climbing it with David Guldmann some six years ago. We got hit by a little snow at the top, making it a noteworthy trip.
Lassen Peak came into view for the first time today. At 10,200 feet it stands far above other peaks in the area. As I looked at the summit off in the distance I recalled my climbing it with David Guldmann some six years ago. We got hit by a little snow at the top, making it a noteworthy trip.
We had a dry stretch of 15 miles today. That doesn't faze me anymore but it makes me appreciate the availability of water that I have enjoyed in previous expeditions. All of this will prepare me for my future hike in the desert section of the PCT.
Journey and I decided to put in a long day since it was cool due to the overcast clouds. We were tired but knew that the heat would likely be full bore tomorrow. The last task of the day was a fairly steep climb over Butt Mountain (yes that is the name).
We camped off trail after descending off of the mountain. Unbeknowst to us at the time: we were sleeping fifty feet from the official halfway point of the entire PCT!
We camped off trail after descending off of the mountain. Unbeknowst to us at the time: we were sleeping fifty feet from the official halfway point of the entire PCT!
Day 25 -- 26 miles (Butt Mountain to Drakesbad Guest Ranch)
Just as we started we hit the PCT halfway marker. Journey and another hiker named Retro asked to have their pictures taken. SInce I am section hiking the trail one piece at a time this milestone wasn't as important to me.
All the other PCT hikers were excited to get into the town of Chester today, but I had other plans. I had heard through the grapevine that the Drakesbad Guest Ranch was a great place to stop, and was located right on the trail.
All the other PCT hikers were excited to get into the town of Chester today, but I had other plans. I had heard through the grapevine that the Drakesbad Guest Ranch was a great place to stop, and was located right on the trail.
Unfortunately, in my excitement to make dinner at Drakesbad, I hiked too fast and bonked en route to the resort. By the time I got there I was dying for food and drink. A cold lemonade from a waitress hit the spot.
Since dinner was a couple of hours away, I decided to hit the shower. Very nice. I met a hiker named Slowwalker who was also planning to feast along with his family visiting from Fairbanks, Alaska.
Diesel and Hammer, the guys I met at South Lake Tahoe, also showed up for dinner. They had decided not to quit the trail after all. It was fun catching up with those guys.
Since dinner was a couple of hours away, I decided to hit the shower. Very nice. I met a hiker named Slowwalker who was also planning to feast along with his family visiting from Fairbanks, Alaska.
Diesel and Hammer, the guys I met at South Lake Tahoe, also showed up for dinner. They had decided not to quit the trail after all. It was fun catching up with those guys.
Dinner at the Drakesbad was fantastic: spinach salad with kiwi and blueberries, roast duck breast with plum sauce over a bed of wild grains, and a heaping bowl of ice cream and berries for dessert. Did I mention that in addition they brought out extra platters of all leftover food including some corn dogs? All for $8!!!!!
After dinner, Diesel and I sat around the group campfire trading stories with the regular guests of the ranch. I learned that Diesel himself had served with the Navy Special Forces and was affiliated with the Seals. He told some incredible stories about the things he experienced in that capacity
Tonight I slept on top of a picnic table for the first time ever. It was a smart move on two fronts: it was pretty comfortable and it kept me pretty warm on a very cold night in the valley.
Day 26 -- 24 miles (Drakesbad Guest Ranch to Old Station, CA)
As with dinner, breakfast was incredible: homeade pancakes with chicken dumplings, accompanied by an organic fruit and a nice cereal bar.
I decided to hike with Diesel and Hammer today. i was amazed how how many miles these guys cover going such a relaxed pace. My legs and feet were grateful that i was slowing down after running the day before.
The landscape through lassen was flat as a pancake, with great views of the stratovolcano that is Lassen Peak. I was good having people to chat with while hiking. It was also nice to find someone stocked with a certain herbal remedy that goes well with hiking.
The three of us arrived at Old Station at 7:45pm, just as Diesel had predicted hours before. We called the Heitman's, who are trail angels who help out hikers, to get a ride to their house. While waiting for them we stocked up on snacks and sandwiches at the town general store.
The Heitman's house proved to be a hiker's dream. The property was huge and well-kept. A bunch of other hikers were already there and lounging. I saw Chris, who had teamed up again with Coyote and Jasper after a hiatus. I also saw Ken and Marsha from Livermore.
A pre-pitched tent in the back of the yard made a nice shelter for the evening.
Day 27 -- 14 miles (Old Station, CA to the Hat Creek Rim)
We embarked about 4pm so that we could beat the heat on the Hat Creek Rim. About seven miles into the trail, at the Hat Creek lookout, we met a couple of vacationers that gave us beer and watermelon before we entered the no-water-zone. They were eager to hear our trail stories.
Night hiking proved to be a lot of fun. Before the trip I was smart to buy a good headlamp that was good for such things. Around 11pm we got tired enough to stop and cowboy camp.
Day 28 -- 18 miles (Hat Creek Rim to Burney Falls State Park)
Our 4:30am start was tough but necessary, given what would await us later in the day. The moment the sun rose it was strong, I knew we were in for a tough one.
After a few hours we made it to a water cache that was generously stocked by some local trail angels. There was still a few gallons of water left but I hoped that more was coming in soon, given how many hikers were right behind us.
After hours of sweating, we finally dropped below the rim, only to be welcomed by a pointless trail that meandered all through a desert wasteland. When we finally made it to the highway, I figured that the ridiculous trail had forced us to go an extra two miles out of the way.
Eventually we made it to the fish hatchery, the first source of good water, in many miles. There we met Journey and Retro, who were lounging in a nice shady picnic area. We did a few more miles that night and camped right by the trail.
Day 29 -- 10 miles (Fish Hatchery to Burney Falls State Park)
We hiked the few miles to the highway to get into the town of Burney for a much needed break. Our hitch couldn't have been easier, as we were picked up by a pickup truck driver just two minutes after meeting the road.
Breakfast in town was satisfying but not outstanding. I had two porkchops with scrambled eggs and three pancakes. Three large glasses of root beer washed it down.
Deisel, Hammer, and I walked the town for groceries and other errands. It was a hot day and the asphault provided no relief.
For lunch I hit a mediocre pizza buffett. At least there were free refills on drinks.
Rather than hang out at the pizza place all day we opted to go to a bowling alley across the street to kill a little time and avoid the heat. The ladies running the bowling alley couldn't have been more aloof or unfriendly. I guess when you run a second-rate cowtown bowling alley that is totally empty during the day it gives you license to act like queen bitch to friendly hikers looking to give you money.
We decided to get out of town after this and other experiences that convinced us that Burney was not a welcome place. Its weird how some towns open up to hikers and others do not.
The hitch to the trail was tough but we eventually got one from a lady who lived next to the trail and understood our mission. She actually drove past the trailhead in order to get us a bit further down the trail as a favor. I of course had to run back to the trailhead after getting dropped off to ensure my walking line was unbroken. Not all hikers are as anal about this as I am, but to me its important not to have any gaps.
We happened upon a nice campground for the night and each had a picnic table to sleep on.
Day 30 -- 25 miles (Burney Falls State Park to Random Gully)
As we were getting ready in the morning, Diesel decided to start early with the idea that we meet at the Burney Falls State Park general store. When Hammer and I arrived later on at the store we found delicious Belgian waffles, but no Diesel. We correctly figured he had missed the trail junction to the store.
We found Diesel a couple of towers down the trail, and he wasn't to happy he had missed a Belgian waffle breakfast. The trail was fairly uneventful and rolling today. Due to our delayed start we hiked into the night and made a hasty campsite selection that would come back to bite us in the ass.
Day 31 -- 26 miles (Random Gully to Random Trail Bend)
We were hammered by a big storm most of the night. Fortunately I had pitched my tarp before getting to bed. I only got up to make sure the stakes were in deep, due to the escalating winds.
Diesel and Hammer were not as lucky. Each got thoroughly soaked that night. Both were surprised to learn that I was dry in the morning. They half-heartedly told me how happy they were for me, as they got an early start.
I emerged from the tarp in driving rain and wind. Hiking was flat out miserable. I was very cold and couldn't stop to take a break as a result. Five hours after starting I caught them both. We all looked pretty crappy as we munched some food and theorized about how long the storm would last.
A little sun later in the day gave Diesel and Hammer a small and inadequate window to dry their soggy gear. As evening approached, we could hear thunder off in the distance. A simple hand count told me that the storm was fourteen miles away and closing. We camped directly on a flat section of trail in an effort to stay dry.
Day 32 -- 22 miles (Random Trail Bend to Sacramento River Valley)
While Hammer and I were able to stay dry in our own shelters, Diesel got soaked again. He became so frustrated that he just sat in the rain for a while trying to figure out what to do. At 5am he decided to hike out to keep up body warmth.
I caught Diesel down the trail later in the Morning. We eventually came to a dry, sunny swimming hole that provided a perfect place to break and dry out. The water was cold but the bath was much needed. Hammer rolled in a little later since he had slept in to make up for the sleep deficit accrued the night before.
There was a big but steady climb out of the valley. As we got free of the trees, Mt. Shasta revealed herself to us for the first time in days. Massive. Beautiful. Beckoning. I started to go crazy with anticipation thinking about the prospect of getting to the summit, as I had planned to do with my good friend Jeff Hotchkiss in a couple of days.
A little bit of research revealed that we could take a shortcut to bypass a pointlessly long section of trail. We camped early that night since we all were weary and Diesel hadn't slept in a few nights.
Day 33 -- 6 miles (Sacramento River Valley to Mt. Shasta City, CA)
We were excited to get going with the anticipation of meeting Jeff at Interstate 5.
Off course the PCT treated us to a tortuous descent whereby we took ridiculously long switchbacks to drop negligible altitude. Just when my patience had run out we arrived at a road near the Sacramento River. I called Jeff to find out he was only twenty minutes away from us.
We hiked swiftly to the highway. We literally waited sixty seconds when Jeff pulled up in his shiny Jeep. Was he ever a sight for sore eyes. As he hopped out of the car he wisely greeted us with Febreze and anti-bacterial handi-wipes. The three dirty hikers were able to clean up enough to take the edge off.
Those who know Jeff know that he has limitless supply of humor and enthusiasm. To three hikers who hadn't seen a town in days were kind of shell-shocked. Needless to say we welcomed the change of pace and were in need of the many good laughs that Jeff provided.
We pulled in for breakfast at the Black Bear Diner. All of us hadn't eaten all day since we had run out of food the night before. I ordered a feast: portugese omelette with sausage, cheese, veggies with hashbrowns and biscuits. To top it all off I got a full order of french toast rolled in corn flakes and then pan fried and loaded down with syrup.
After breakfast Jeff wisely recommended that we check in with the ranger to station to get climbing permits and to check in on the weather forecast. The rangers gave us the lowdown on climbing conditions: inclement weather was scheduled to leave the area by tomorrow with sun to follow.
Our climb might be a close call given the weather, but Jeff and I decided to go for it. We headed to the gear store afterwards to get needed equipment. We then went to find a hotel for Diesel and Hammer who, due to the need of a well-deserved break from hiking, decided not to climb Shasta with us.
Jeff and I drove to the trailhead some time later so that we could acclimate as much as possible for the high elevation we would see the next day. Upon our arrival we met a fellow climber Matt who, being solo, asked if he could join us on our summit bid the next morning. We obliged and set a schedule and plan of attack.
In the early evening, a Lexus pulled up to the trailhead and three dudes hopped out. While looking for a campsite they walked close to Jeff and I, whereby Jeff politely informed them that we were leaving pretty early in the morning and they might want to camp away from us so as to avoid being woken up. One snooty bastard shot back that they in fact were waking up an hour earlier, as if this implied they were somehow better prepared for the climb. Whatev.
Day 34 -- 13 miles (Mt. Shasta Summit -- Bagged It!)
Jeff, Matt and I (aka "Team Methane") hit the 6,300 foot Clear Creek Trailhead at 3:16am. Matt set a swift and comfortable place that got us to just about treeline at 8,500 feet by 4:45am. We loaded up on water at the last spring we would see and then proceed to do a little wayfinding up the mountain.
As the sun rose our headlamps were packed away and we found the trail with a little searching. The trail began to steepen considerably and we were forced to stop every hour to catch our breath and get some calories down.
As we neared 10,000 feet the wind became brutal. I threw on some extra layers and tried to keep my mind off of the discomfort. A short while later Team Methane huddled behind the protection of a rock, and discussed the weather. The heavy wind, combined with big clouds obscuring the summit, cast a doubt as to whether we should proceed.
A short while later the sky opened up and we proceeded to climb again. The osft scree made it tough work, as our feet would routinely slide back as we stepped up. Another guided group of older folks who we dubbed "gray team" was hiking in the vincinity.
As we approached 13,000 feet our climb became far more difficult. Rather than trail, we were greeted with a confusing very steep face full of snow and loose rocks. Since no one on Team Methane had taken this route before, we were unsure where to go. Jeff and I followed Gray Team up the steep, frozen, precarious labyrinth. After a lot of hard work we found ourselved on the crater, with the summit in sight!
Jeff led me up the final switchbacks of the summit. At 11am sharp we made it, 14,162 feet!!! There were a few other teams resting on top.
The vista from the summit was truly a sight to behold. I sighed with pride as I looked over the same country to the south that I had traversed over so many days and so many miles. I will never forget that feeling.
Shortly thereafter, Matt, who had followed another group up an alternate route, joined us. We snapped some pictures, signed our names in the registry, and began our descent.
After fidgeting with my crampons I was finally able to get them into acceptable shape for the precarious descent down snow and rock. I felt glad to have Jeff and Matt with me as we went down as it was tiring and slow going on the steep section. We finally made it to the bottom and ate a much needed snack.
The remaining descent from 12,000 feet was very easy on the legs. The same ash-laden scree that had made our ascent so tough gave us ample cushion on the decline. We made great time going down, and were able to enjoy the many outstanding views that the mountain offered to us.
As we got to about 9,000 feet on the mountain, Matt got word from his father at the trailhead via walkie-talkie that one of the members of Team Jackass (the snooty "1am group") was missing. A search and rescue was being assembled to find him.
Team Methane pulled of the trail at 4pm. After some beers and Woodford Reserve Whiskey Team Methane breathed a collective sigh of satisfaction. A job done well and swiftly at that. Our rate of 1,000 feet climbed in an hour was very respectable by mountaineering standards.
A short time later the lost member of Team Jackass showed up. Due to a misunderstanding he had left his two other clueless team members. In the process of fucking up every aspect of their trip, we learned that Team Jackass had actually summited the wrong mountain, some 8,000 foot kiddie peak nearby. I guess being a jackass is a full-time job!
Jeff and I rolled back into town, got some showers at our hotel, the Cold Creek Inn, and picked up Hammer and Diesel en route to the Piedmont Italian Restaurant for dinner. Matt and his dad showed up a short time later.
For dinner I had four bowls of minestrone soup, heaping plates of salad, filet mignon, and pasta. Unfortunately, I ate myslef into nausea. Given how little sleep I had and how exhausted I was from the many days of hiking without a break I think my body started to get a little revenge. Seeing that I had an upset stomach, Jeff took me back to the hotel to sleep and headed out with Hammer and Diesel on the town.
I slept like a rock.
Day 35 -- 0 miles (Mt. Shasta City)
Jeff welcomed me with fresh coffee in the morning. We made trip to the laundromat and then to a great breakfast at a local place. It was obvious to the other guys at breakfast that I was still pretty tired, and they convinced me to take a day off in town.
Jeff drove us to the grocery store and then me back to the Cold Creek Inn to get a room for the night. I said goodbye to all of them. Jeff was driving Diesel back to the PCT trailhead, Hammer to Redding to catch a bus to Portland, and himself back to the city.
I collapsed on the bed after they drove away and proceed to indulge in an uninterrupted 10-hour session of napping, eating, and tv watching before I retired for the night.
Day 36 -- (Mt. Shasta City, CA to ...)
I'm typing this blog at the Chad Hunt Computer Store in town. I enjoyed a triple burger, large friesm and large drink at a local eatery and am now preparing to hitch back to the PCT trailhead.
I should finish in Ashland, OR a week from Friday!
Saturday, July 14, 2007
Donner Pass to Belden, CA
day 17 -- 23 miles (donner pass to a some random road)
today i said goodbye to becky. i am gratful to her and her parents forhosting my smelly self for three days. the drive up to donner passreminded me just how much easieer driving is than hiking. maybe i'll do aroad trip in a car next summer!
the hike from donner was annoying due to traffic noise and poor trail. not to mention i was just feeling glum about leaving the cozy confines of the clark house.
i met two pct hikers named ladybug and thirty-thirty who were having lunch on the trail. i had met them at echo lake resort and was surprised to see that they had not gone very far down the trail during my days away. they informed me that many hikers had taken some days off for the holiday around tahoe.
i saw the peter grubb hut a few miles into the trail. the hut is a cozy sierra club destination. it looks like a great spot to go while snowshoeing next winter. anyone wanna go?
tonight i camped at a road junction that had a spring about 10 minutesaway. it was very painful getting water that night since i had thought i was done with walking for the day.
the strangest thing happened when i set down to sleep. a bunny came and sat just five feet away and stared at me. i threw a carrot over to it and it didn't even flinch. after seeing it wouldn't move i went to sleep, only to discover the bunny had departed by morning.
day 18 -- 16 miles (some random road to sierra city, ca)
i had big plans to do a large number of miles but the heat really got to me. the weather channels are reporting a record heat wave in nearby reno. even though the route was mostly downhill today, the trek became more tiring with every step. this was due to the fact that the heat was more intense at lower elevations.
when i reached the highway i was spent, and walked a half mile into sierra city. i collapsed on a shady bench in front of the general store. before i could even speak i had to eat a pint of ben and jerrys and drink a liter of soda.
my spirits had hit rock bottom. i felt like the last thing i wanted to do was head up a nasty climb out of sierra city. then again, i wanted to make good miles today in order to meet my goal. the thought of staying in town was tempting, but i didn't even know where to begin the search for accomodations.
suddenly chris appeared out of the blue. i had met him on the trail just before south lake tahoe. he was staying in sierra city with a few of friends for a couple of days. he asked if i would like to hang out with them for the day since they had a hotel and a car. sold!
after meeting pct hiker warwick, his wife jesse, and her brother james, i lounged on the outside porch and got cleaned up. they were all packing to for a section hike commencing the next day.
we had dinner on a nice outdoor patio of a local restaurant. i devoured some chicken tenders and nice salad.that night, chris, james and i stealth camped by the side of the highway. i was surpirised how soft the ground was under my bag. i slept very well that night. i think i sleep better with other people in the vicinity.
day 19 -- 23 miles (sierra city, ca to "the a tree")
chris, warwick, jesse, james and myself started hiking at 6am to try and beat the heat. we used a shortcut that climbed right out of town to save us some pointless road walking. both strategies proved to be successful. as we were climbing i realized it is great to have people to hike with you. going alone has some great advantages, but it can get old in a hurry, especially when conditions are challenging.
at a juncton in the route, the others opted to hike up a fire lookout perched on the top of the massive sierra buttes. i opted not to do the fire tower due to water issues, and a general eagerness to make up miles.
i took a nice nap at oakland pond, one of the few convenient water sources the pct would come in contact with on this day. i waved to ladybug and thirty-thrity as they came to fill up. i watched from afar as they were unable to find a faint spur trail back to the pct. as a result, they had to backtrack a bit. an hour later my own search for the spur trail was successful, and i was able to save some time.
i'm starting to realize that water is gonna be a big issue this summer. it will be the first big trip i've done where i need to watch for this.i camped at the "a-tree" site, with a great spring flowing out of a pipe. man was i thirsty tonight.
at about 11pm i was awoken by a loud voice on the trail. some crazy nighthiker and his dog showed up. the guy was talking to himself as he filled up his water bottle. i laid low hoping he would notice my presence a few feet away. it worked.i hate mosquitoes.
day 20 -- 22 miles (the "a-tree" to some refreshing creek)
another long hot day on the trail. very sparse water. not many stories of interest to report. tonight i camped at a refreshing roadside creek, the highlight of the day.
day 21 -- 23 miles (some refreshing creek to some refreshing meadow)
the highlight of the day was a swimming hole on the middle fork ofthe feather river. the water was green and warm enough to relax in. this is a great place that deserves a revisit.
it was a tough 3000 foot climb out of the canyon. i found a dead dog onthe trail. giving how hot i was, i imagined the dog was the lucky one here.
chris and james caught up with me just before dinner. they had done a couple of shorter days with warwick and jesse and decided to press on ahead. we ate dinner on a rock outcropping with an expansive vista and then we camped at a meadow for the night.
day 22--24 miles (some refreshing meadow to belden, ca)
we got an early start on the mad dash to belden. rumor has it that there are a couple of trail angels with a nice home who let hikers stay with them.
the descent into belden was sweltering and terrible. the steep switchvacks were often blocked by fallen trees or overgrown with poison oak and manzanita.
the "town" of belden was as hot and unwelcoming as the trail itself. this place is a dump and everything looked closed. i sat on the front porch of the closed general store and made some phone calls. some dude came up and sat a few feet down from me on the porch. after 10 silent minutes went by i asked if he knew when the store would re-open. he jumped out of his seat surprised that a tired hiker might want access to cold drinks and ice cream (ever heard of captalism?). he opened his store, which was pitiful, but it did have a pint of ice cream handy.
a pint of hagen daaz awoke signs of life in me. i called the the braaten trail angels and they picked ladybug, thirty-thirty, james, and myself up.
little haven, the home of the braatens, was a welcome respite from the sweltering canyon floor.james and i hiked to another local store for burger, fries, and a salad. since the laundry machines were broken, a cook named cindy (who happened to be a neighbor of the braatens) offered to do our laundry.
we rode back with cindy to little haven and then proceeded to get clean. there were a lot of hikers staying there but i managed to score a bed. even though it was too hot to sleep at night i at least was comfortable.
day 23 -- 7 miles (belden, ca to mosley flat camp)
we awoke to an awesome pancake, egg, peaches, and bacon breakfast made by the braatens. james and i did dishes.
neighbor cindy's husband, roger, gave james, a hiker named journey, and myself a ride to quincy, the big town in the area. at the post office i collected a package that had some provisions and new shoes. i then did some big damage in the town safeway, assembling a lunch of epic proportions: chicken wings, roast beef sandwich, avocado, 2 smoothies, mountain dew, chocolate milk, 2 bananas, hummus, and carrots.
we then said goodbye to james, who was going to look for a hitch from quincy to sierra city, where his rental car was located.
the afternoon was spent eating and chatting with other hikers who had just come off the trail.
the climb out of belden was steep and hot, suprise. due to water issues it did not make sense to push past. i ended up camping with journey, saltlick, jacob, and chigger. a second party arrived an hour after we went to bed.
today i said goodbye to becky. i am gratful to her and her parents forhosting my smelly self for three days. the drive up to donner passreminded me just how much easieer driving is than hiking. maybe i'll do aroad trip in a car next summer!
the hike from donner was annoying due to traffic noise and poor trail. not to mention i was just feeling glum about leaving the cozy confines of the clark house.
i met two pct hikers named ladybug and thirty-thirty who were having lunch on the trail. i had met them at echo lake resort and was surprised to see that they had not gone very far down the trail during my days away. they informed me that many hikers had taken some days off for the holiday around tahoe.
i saw the peter grubb hut a few miles into the trail. the hut is a cozy sierra club destination. it looks like a great spot to go while snowshoeing next winter. anyone wanna go?
tonight i camped at a road junction that had a spring about 10 minutesaway. it was very painful getting water that night since i had thought i was done with walking for the day.
the strangest thing happened when i set down to sleep. a bunny came and sat just five feet away and stared at me. i threw a carrot over to it and it didn't even flinch. after seeing it wouldn't move i went to sleep, only to discover the bunny had departed by morning.
day 18 -- 16 miles (some random road to sierra city, ca)
i had big plans to do a large number of miles but the heat really got to me. the weather channels are reporting a record heat wave in nearby reno. even though the route was mostly downhill today, the trek became more tiring with every step. this was due to the fact that the heat was more intense at lower elevations.
when i reached the highway i was spent, and walked a half mile into sierra city. i collapsed on a shady bench in front of the general store. before i could even speak i had to eat a pint of ben and jerrys and drink a liter of soda.
my spirits had hit rock bottom. i felt like the last thing i wanted to do was head up a nasty climb out of sierra city. then again, i wanted to make good miles today in order to meet my goal. the thought of staying in town was tempting, but i didn't even know where to begin the search for accomodations.
suddenly chris appeared out of the blue. i had met him on the trail just before south lake tahoe. he was staying in sierra city with a few of friends for a couple of days. he asked if i would like to hang out with them for the day since they had a hotel and a car. sold!
after meeting pct hiker warwick, his wife jesse, and her brother james, i lounged on the outside porch and got cleaned up. they were all packing to for a section hike commencing the next day.
we had dinner on a nice outdoor patio of a local restaurant. i devoured some chicken tenders and nice salad.that night, chris, james and i stealth camped by the side of the highway. i was surpirised how soft the ground was under my bag. i slept very well that night. i think i sleep better with other people in the vicinity.
day 19 -- 23 miles (sierra city, ca to "the a tree")
chris, warwick, jesse, james and myself started hiking at 6am to try and beat the heat. we used a shortcut that climbed right out of town to save us some pointless road walking. both strategies proved to be successful. as we were climbing i realized it is great to have people to hike with you. going alone has some great advantages, but it can get old in a hurry, especially when conditions are challenging.
at a juncton in the route, the others opted to hike up a fire lookout perched on the top of the massive sierra buttes. i opted not to do the fire tower due to water issues, and a general eagerness to make up miles.
i took a nice nap at oakland pond, one of the few convenient water sources the pct would come in contact with on this day. i waved to ladybug and thirty-thrity as they came to fill up. i watched from afar as they were unable to find a faint spur trail back to the pct. as a result, they had to backtrack a bit. an hour later my own search for the spur trail was successful, and i was able to save some time.
i'm starting to realize that water is gonna be a big issue this summer. it will be the first big trip i've done where i need to watch for this.i camped at the "a-tree" site, with a great spring flowing out of a pipe. man was i thirsty tonight.
at about 11pm i was awoken by a loud voice on the trail. some crazy nighthiker and his dog showed up. the guy was talking to himself as he filled up his water bottle. i laid low hoping he would notice my presence a few feet away. it worked.i hate mosquitoes.
day 20 -- 22 miles (the "a-tree" to some refreshing creek)
another long hot day on the trail. very sparse water. not many stories of interest to report. tonight i camped at a refreshing roadside creek, the highlight of the day.
day 21 -- 23 miles (some refreshing creek to some refreshing meadow)
the highlight of the day was a swimming hole on the middle fork ofthe feather river. the water was green and warm enough to relax in. this is a great place that deserves a revisit.
it was a tough 3000 foot climb out of the canyon. i found a dead dog onthe trail. giving how hot i was, i imagined the dog was the lucky one here.
chris and james caught up with me just before dinner. they had done a couple of shorter days with warwick and jesse and decided to press on ahead. we ate dinner on a rock outcropping with an expansive vista and then we camped at a meadow for the night.
day 22--24 miles (some refreshing meadow to belden, ca)
we got an early start on the mad dash to belden. rumor has it that there are a couple of trail angels with a nice home who let hikers stay with them.
the descent into belden was sweltering and terrible. the steep switchvacks were often blocked by fallen trees or overgrown with poison oak and manzanita.
the "town" of belden was as hot and unwelcoming as the trail itself. this place is a dump and everything looked closed. i sat on the front porch of the closed general store and made some phone calls. some dude came up and sat a few feet down from me on the porch. after 10 silent minutes went by i asked if he knew when the store would re-open. he jumped out of his seat surprised that a tired hiker might want access to cold drinks and ice cream (ever heard of captalism?). he opened his store, which was pitiful, but it did have a pint of ice cream handy.
a pint of hagen daaz awoke signs of life in me. i called the the braaten trail angels and they picked ladybug, thirty-thirty, james, and myself up.
little haven, the home of the braatens, was a welcome respite from the sweltering canyon floor.james and i hiked to another local store for burger, fries, and a salad. since the laundry machines were broken, a cook named cindy (who happened to be a neighbor of the braatens) offered to do our laundry.
we rode back with cindy to little haven and then proceeded to get clean. there were a lot of hikers staying there but i managed to score a bed. even though it was too hot to sleep at night i at least was comfortable.
day 23 -- 7 miles (belden, ca to mosley flat camp)
we awoke to an awesome pancake, egg, peaches, and bacon breakfast made by the braatens. james and i did dishes.
neighbor cindy's husband, roger, gave james, a hiker named journey, and myself a ride to quincy, the big town in the area. at the post office i collected a package that had some provisions and new shoes. i then did some big damage in the town safeway, assembling a lunch of epic proportions: chicken wings, roast beef sandwich, avocado, 2 smoothies, mountain dew, chocolate milk, 2 bananas, hummus, and carrots.
we then said goodbye to james, who was going to look for a hitch from quincy to sierra city, where his rental car was located.
the afternoon was spent eating and chatting with other hikers who had just come off the trail.
the climb out of belden was steep and hot, suprise. due to water issues it did not make sense to push past. i ended up camping with journey, saltlick, jacob, and chigger. a second party arrived an hour after we went to bed.
Tuesday, July 3, 2007
Sonora Pass to Donner Pass
Day 6 Cont'd – Bridgeport, CA to Leavitt Meadows, CA (0 Miles)
I waited about fifteen minutes before someone picked me up on the edge of town. A young guy from nearby Lee Vining driving a Subaru took me to the junction of 395 and 108. I always try and theorize about a person’s motivation when they stop to pick up a hitchhiker. In this case it was easy: he looked just like I did with the scruffy beard and odd tan lines. Maybe subconsciously he was offering himself a lift?
It was a hot day in the desert, and the junction where I was waiting might easily have been the hottest. I could hear some fellows celebrating a fly-fishing catch in a creek just a few yards away, but my own catch was more elusive. After an hour, a red pick-up truck pulled over and the passenger window rolled down. “Git in back and hold on tight cuz I drive kind fast. Don’t mind th’ dawg, he won’t bite ya.” I jump over the side of the truck into the bed, only to be welcomed by an enormous Rottweiler with a studded collar. As promised the passage was swift and bite-free. The ride ended outside the driver’s home at Leavitt Meadows, a pack station located about 9 miles below the Sonora summit.
As I thanked the driver and his family, I was told that the last hitch to the summit, where the trailhead was located, would not be a problem. That ride would not come today. I opted to hike a half mile downhill to the Leavitt Meadows campground for the night. After a complete lap around the place it was obvious all of the sites were already taken. Having no other option, I decided to approach a group of three campers to inquire if they mind my pitching a tent at their site. Adam Ruth, Jeff Brooks Jr. and Jeff Brooks Sr. graciously granted my request. The three, who live in LA, were on there annual car camping trip to the area. As luck would have it, Jeff Sr. was celebrating his sixty-second birthday that night. We all traded stories around the campfire and had a great time on a beautiful night under the stars.
Day 7 – Leavitt Meadows, CA to Some Random Creek (16 Miles)
I rose early to a quick breakfast and thanked the trio again for their generosity as I walked out of the campground to resume my hitch-hiking. After two hours of drive-bys there was again no luck. I was getting anxious to get on the trail again so I decided to be more assertive in strategy. I then walked around the campground offering twenty bucks to anyone who would drive me the last nine miles to the pass. I finally got a taker. “Tiny”, a huge road construction worker from L.A., drove me up in his truck. Reminded about the steepness of the grade, I was glad I hadn’t walked it. Twenty bucks well spent.
No sooner than had I been dropped off at the trailhead and I noticed another fellow with a small backpack at the summit. To the untrained eye, he looked like scruffy day hiker with a small backpack. To the discriminating eye he was a PCT thru-hiker carrying a very light load. He introduced himself as Tatoo Joe, and I would soon deduce that he was one of the fastest, and one of the most well-known, thru-hikers around.
I was happy to finally have someone else with whom to hike. Tatoo Joe had already hiked ten miles that morning, but you wouldn’t know it from the way he was climbing up the grade from the road. Of the interesting things I learned from Tatoo Joe, perhaps this fact was the most shocking: he once hiked the entire PCT with a base pack weight of under five pounds (that is without food and water being considered)!!! To someone like myself who likes to count ounces, I had a lot to learn from someone like Joe. After 12 miles of hiking together, I couldn’t keep up. Joe was set on turning in a 32-mile day, and I wasn’t even able to finish the last 22 miles with him!
As is typically the case in thru-hiking, there was no good-bye between us, he just kept going and I faded back. It suited me just fine as I was getting very tired. I ended up putting in about 16 miles and setting up camp near a small creek for the evening. Stove Top Stuffing for dinner.
Day 8 – Some Random Creek to Dorothy Lake (21 Miles)
There are days when it seems it would have been better to not get out of bed. Today was one of those days. I woke up, nibbled some food and packed up my belongings. I then went to a nearby tree to perform my daily ritual. Not having seen more than 10 people in a week in the backcountry I gave no thought to privacy. Caught in the act! A girl thru-hiker came around the corner to catch me with my pants down. Not a great first impression. She scooted out of the scene and I tried to put together the pieces of my damaged ego. Shit happens.
I decided that what I needed to clear my mind was a good hike. And a good hike is what I got, until I got lost. It happened quickly and without much warning. I was hiking along and came to a junction, thinking I had taken the correct trail. The trail I chose, later to be determined as the incorrect trail, led me to the edge of a steep canyon. The trail then became faint and I eventually lost it. I looked around for the trail but to no avail. After some checking with my map and compass, I determined that I should just find my own way down the canyon to find the trail at its base, the creek at the bottom.
So I made a bushwhack descent of the canyon, losing about 800 feet vertical. It was at the bottom of the canyon, having found no trail once again, that I realized my mistake. I had taken the wrong trail, and, to make matters worse, had lost that wrong trail and ended up in a place on the very edge of my map. I was frustrated and a little bit scared at that moment. My overconfidence in orienteering had gotten me into this, and much as I was tempted to find another path back to the PCT, I knew the safest bet would be to backtrack to where I had started.
Back up the canyon I went, and it was a tough and exhausting climb, compounded by the frustration I felt for making a poor decision. As I gained the ridge, I noticed a well-formed trail and figured this had to be the PCT which I must have missed before. After hiking two miles on it, I realized I was wrong again. I came to a junction with a badly battered sign (read: I wouldn’t be surprised if another PCT hiker had damaged the sign in a rage after realizing the same mistake). After carefully painstakingly piecing together broken shards of wood on the sign to form letters, and looking at my map, I realized that I still was not on the PCT. The bad news was that I was about two miles away from the PCT. The good news was that the trail I was on, the Murray Canyon Trail, would in conjunction with another trail meet the PCT on at a point further along that when I had left it. I could verify this by looking at my map.
So I opted to take this alternate course back to the PCT. My passage was anxious since I wasn’t entirely sure I could trust that this secondary trail had been maintained or that it was clearly marked. After a couple of hours I eventually came to a junction with the PCT. I was so relieved that, I kid you not, I kissed the junction marker. I was so relieved. Being lost in the wilderness is not a good feeling, especially when you are going solo.
And did I mention one of my most prized pieces of gear, my umbrella, broke today? After some 900 miles of use it finally died. Great for rain protection and sun protection. Gone.
A short while later I met a friendly day hiker named Kenny. Being a computer technician from Bend, Oregon, Kenny was excited to talk with me about how to learn web design. It was just what I needed to get my mind off of the debacle. As Kenny and I parted half an hour later, we exchanged goodbyes and, in the ultimate act of thru-hiker good will, Kenny allowed me to leave a bag of my garbage (including my deceased umbrella) near his car so that I wouldn’t have to pack it out!!!
After crossing Highway 4 at Ebbetts Pass, I realized how tired I was from the day. I opted to camp at Dorothy Lake, a magnificent place just a few miles off of the highway. Good call and a great end to a day where I not only had my shit on display, but had it handed to me as well.
Day 9 – Dorothy Lake to The Nipple (18 Miles)
From the first step of the hike today I was captivated with the scenery. At times it was hard to believe I was still in California. The familiar Sierra granite had given way to amazing volcanic formations. The wild flowers put on a dazzling show. The trail was well maintained and graded well. The miles came easy, and most importantly, I didn’t get lost. I can whole-heartedly recommend this hike from Highway 4 to anybody who would like to do some fun day-hiking or backpacking.
The final highlight of the day was the PCT’s ascent of a mountain known as The Nipple. The name lives up to the visuals, the mountain does look like a well-formed breast. As I scaled the slopes a cold wind began to howl against me. It made the climb tougher and, unless I’m mistaken, the end of The Nipple appeared to be a bit firmer and more erect the colder it got!
Day 10 – The Nipple to Bendon Meadows (18 Miles)
I met two more thru-hikers, Stretch and Grasshopper. Stretch is a girl from Seattle and Grasshopper a dude from Wisconsin. I didn’t get too much time hiking with either of them because they were in a rush to get to showers and meals in South Lake Tahoe.
At Carson Pass on Highway 88, I met two cyclists who had just summited and wanted their picture taken next to the sign. When I asked one of the guys where he was headed he replied with dramatic pause, that they were riding to Virginia. “Yorktown I gather?” I replied, catching he and his buddy completely off-guard. I went on to explain that I myself had ridden my bike across America before. Been there, done that. Yada yada yada. I told them hiking the PCT was a tougher endeavor. I can be mean sometimes.
I was also able to make a few calls at Carson Pass at the Welcome Center. Nice place and nice folks. They warned me about the Tahoe fire, though it looked like it was close to be contained at last word. The smoke was very evident throughout the area. I sure hope a backpacker didn’t start that fire.
The rest of the day was a relaxing hike. I was tempted to hurry and head to South Lake Tahoe as well, but I in the end I was happy to finish a little short. I found an incredible campsite just three miles from the Highway 50 summit. I’ll definitely be coming back here with friends. Are you my friend?
Day 11- Bendon Meadows to Gilmour Lake (15 Miles)
After an early start courtesy of a mosquito-driven alarm clock, I crossed Highway 50 and eventually found my way to the Echo Lake Resort, a trailside establishment located in South Lake Tahoe. The resort is a nice place with good sandwiches and milkshakes. I was able to mail and re-mail a package as well as pick up some groceries.
The real story at Echo Lakes was a chance to meet a bunch of thru-hikers at the same time. By far the most entertaining were a pair of brothers from Chelsea, Michigan, trail names Diesel and Hammer. Both had hiked all the way from Mexico and it was apparent that all of the miles had made them a little slap happy. Diesel has kind of a Jeff Foxworthy presence about him, and he was ranting and raving about why he should quit the trail. People were laughing so hard at his observations they couldn’t get a word in to convince him otherwise.
I made the long, hot climb at of Echo Lake at a decent pace, and decided to end the day a little early near Lake Gilmour. I am still having trouble sleeping and I’m experimenting with different padding configurations to make it work.
Day 12 – Gilmour Lake to Alpine Meadows (33 Miles – Personal Record!)
Some days everything comes together: an early start, a very light pack, strong legs, beautiful weather, nice trail, and the will to make something big happen. Today I set a personal record, backpacking 33 miles, while covering some amazing country. I think the biggest difference is that now I am really cutting unnecessary weight out of my pack (no more stove and cook kit for instance). This allows me to run up and down climbs in a very comfortable fashion. I plan on making even more changes in the upcoming break at the Clarks’ place in Sacramento.
The highlight of the day was a five mile hike along a knife-edge ridge approaching the Alpine Meadows ski resort. I witnessed amazing views of the lake and surrounding peaks the whole way. How different this place looks in the summertime compared to the winter when the slopes are packed with skiers!
The will to do such a long hike came from my eagerness in seeing Becky at Donner Pass. By finishing a day earlier than planned I will be able to take an extra day to heal up in Sacramento.
I hiked until after the sun set and used my headlamp to find a meadowy campsite. My sleeping bag got wet but held its temperature protection throughout the night.
Day 13 – Alpine Meadows to Donner Pass (21 Miles)
The dash to Donner Pass started at 5:30 in the morning. I was extremely sore from the long day before so I tossed in a Vicodin mid-morning to help out. Hiking along the slopes of Squaw Valley was cool. As I passed Granite Chief I paid homage to the many great snowboarding days I had experienced in his presence.
More amazing knife-edge hiking today, and all of this is just a few miles from Donner Pass – day hikers of the world get yourself out here! The descent down the slopes of Sugar Bowl was a tough one with ankle breaker rocks at every turn. I made it to Donner Pass Road and borrowed a girl’s cell phone to call Becky and let her know I would be at I-80 in around an hour.
I was expecting the remaining three miles would be easy but of course they were not. I met a day hiker named Gil towards the end who, seeing that I was in quite a bit of discomfort with the Vicodin wearing off, offered to drive me to the Boreal Inn rendezvous point once we were off the trail.
Becky at last! Damn it was good to see her! And we stopped at Ikeda’s in Auburn for burgers, pie, and good trail foods. I grabbed a shower at the Clarks in Granite Bay before I would let anyone greet me (Becky was quick to point out upon meeting me that my aroma was not fit for civilization). Dinner at the Clark’s was some delicious Chinese food, a lot of it.
Days 14, 15, 16 – Granite Bay, CA (0 Miles)
Yep, decided to take some time off. I have a lot of strategizing to do and my body needs the extra down time. It looks like I also caught a bout of Giardia on the trail (I’ll spare you the details), but fortunately the Kaiser doctor gave me a prescription for antibiotics before the lab results came back!
I waited about fifteen minutes before someone picked me up on the edge of town. A young guy from nearby Lee Vining driving a Subaru took me to the junction of 395 and 108. I always try and theorize about a person’s motivation when they stop to pick up a hitchhiker. In this case it was easy: he looked just like I did with the scruffy beard and odd tan lines. Maybe subconsciously he was offering himself a lift?
It was a hot day in the desert, and the junction where I was waiting might easily have been the hottest. I could hear some fellows celebrating a fly-fishing catch in a creek just a few yards away, but my own catch was more elusive. After an hour, a red pick-up truck pulled over and the passenger window rolled down. “Git in back and hold on tight cuz I drive kind fast. Don’t mind th’ dawg, he won’t bite ya.” I jump over the side of the truck into the bed, only to be welcomed by an enormous Rottweiler with a studded collar. As promised the passage was swift and bite-free. The ride ended outside the driver’s home at Leavitt Meadows, a pack station located about 9 miles below the Sonora summit.
As I thanked the driver and his family, I was told that the last hitch to the summit, where the trailhead was located, would not be a problem. That ride would not come today. I opted to hike a half mile downhill to the Leavitt Meadows campground for the night. After a complete lap around the place it was obvious all of the sites were already taken. Having no other option, I decided to approach a group of three campers to inquire if they mind my pitching a tent at their site. Adam Ruth, Jeff Brooks Jr. and Jeff Brooks Sr. graciously granted my request. The three, who live in LA, were on there annual car camping trip to the area. As luck would have it, Jeff Sr. was celebrating his sixty-second birthday that night. We all traded stories around the campfire and had a great time on a beautiful night under the stars.
Day 7 – Leavitt Meadows, CA to Some Random Creek (16 Miles)
I rose early to a quick breakfast and thanked the trio again for their generosity as I walked out of the campground to resume my hitch-hiking. After two hours of drive-bys there was again no luck. I was getting anxious to get on the trail again so I decided to be more assertive in strategy. I then walked around the campground offering twenty bucks to anyone who would drive me the last nine miles to the pass. I finally got a taker. “Tiny”, a huge road construction worker from L.A., drove me up in his truck. Reminded about the steepness of the grade, I was glad I hadn’t walked it. Twenty bucks well spent.
No sooner than had I been dropped off at the trailhead and I noticed another fellow with a small backpack at the summit. To the untrained eye, he looked like scruffy day hiker with a small backpack. To the discriminating eye he was a PCT thru-hiker carrying a very light load. He introduced himself as Tatoo Joe, and I would soon deduce that he was one of the fastest, and one of the most well-known, thru-hikers around.
I was happy to finally have someone else with whom to hike. Tatoo Joe had already hiked ten miles that morning, but you wouldn’t know it from the way he was climbing up the grade from the road. Of the interesting things I learned from Tatoo Joe, perhaps this fact was the most shocking: he once hiked the entire PCT with a base pack weight of under five pounds (that is without food and water being considered)!!! To someone like myself who likes to count ounces, I had a lot to learn from someone like Joe. After 12 miles of hiking together, I couldn’t keep up. Joe was set on turning in a 32-mile day, and I wasn’t even able to finish the last 22 miles with him!
As is typically the case in thru-hiking, there was no good-bye between us, he just kept going and I faded back. It suited me just fine as I was getting very tired. I ended up putting in about 16 miles and setting up camp near a small creek for the evening. Stove Top Stuffing for dinner.
Day 8 – Some Random Creek to Dorothy Lake (21 Miles)
There are days when it seems it would have been better to not get out of bed. Today was one of those days. I woke up, nibbled some food and packed up my belongings. I then went to a nearby tree to perform my daily ritual. Not having seen more than 10 people in a week in the backcountry I gave no thought to privacy. Caught in the act! A girl thru-hiker came around the corner to catch me with my pants down. Not a great first impression. She scooted out of the scene and I tried to put together the pieces of my damaged ego. Shit happens.
I decided that what I needed to clear my mind was a good hike. And a good hike is what I got, until I got lost. It happened quickly and without much warning. I was hiking along and came to a junction, thinking I had taken the correct trail. The trail I chose, later to be determined as the incorrect trail, led me to the edge of a steep canyon. The trail then became faint and I eventually lost it. I looked around for the trail but to no avail. After some checking with my map and compass, I determined that I should just find my own way down the canyon to find the trail at its base, the creek at the bottom.
So I made a bushwhack descent of the canyon, losing about 800 feet vertical. It was at the bottom of the canyon, having found no trail once again, that I realized my mistake. I had taken the wrong trail, and, to make matters worse, had lost that wrong trail and ended up in a place on the very edge of my map. I was frustrated and a little bit scared at that moment. My overconfidence in orienteering had gotten me into this, and much as I was tempted to find another path back to the PCT, I knew the safest bet would be to backtrack to where I had started.
Back up the canyon I went, and it was a tough and exhausting climb, compounded by the frustration I felt for making a poor decision. As I gained the ridge, I noticed a well-formed trail and figured this had to be the PCT which I must have missed before. After hiking two miles on it, I realized I was wrong again. I came to a junction with a badly battered sign (read: I wouldn’t be surprised if another PCT hiker had damaged the sign in a rage after realizing the same mistake). After carefully painstakingly piecing together broken shards of wood on the sign to form letters, and looking at my map, I realized that I still was not on the PCT. The bad news was that I was about two miles away from the PCT. The good news was that the trail I was on, the Murray Canyon Trail, would in conjunction with another trail meet the PCT on at a point further along that when I had left it. I could verify this by looking at my map.
So I opted to take this alternate course back to the PCT. My passage was anxious since I wasn’t entirely sure I could trust that this secondary trail had been maintained or that it was clearly marked. After a couple of hours I eventually came to a junction with the PCT. I was so relieved that, I kid you not, I kissed the junction marker. I was so relieved. Being lost in the wilderness is not a good feeling, especially when you are going solo.
And did I mention one of my most prized pieces of gear, my umbrella, broke today? After some 900 miles of use it finally died. Great for rain protection and sun protection. Gone.
A short while later I met a friendly day hiker named Kenny. Being a computer technician from Bend, Oregon, Kenny was excited to talk with me about how to learn web design. It was just what I needed to get my mind off of the debacle. As Kenny and I parted half an hour later, we exchanged goodbyes and, in the ultimate act of thru-hiker good will, Kenny allowed me to leave a bag of my garbage (including my deceased umbrella) near his car so that I wouldn’t have to pack it out!!!
After crossing Highway 4 at Ebbetts Pass, I realized how tired I was from the day. I opted to camp at Dorothy Lake, a magnificent place just a few miles off of the highway. Good call and a great end to a day where I not only had my shit on display, but had it handed to me as well.
Day 9 – Dorothy Lake to The Nipple (18 Miles)
From the first step of the hike today I was captivated with the scenery. At times it was hard to believe I was still in California. The familiar Sierra granite had given way to amazing volcanic formations. The wild flowers put on a dazzling show. The trail was well maintained and graded well. The miles came easy, and most importantly, I didn’t get lost. I can whole-heartedly recommend this hike from Highway 4 to anybody who would like to do some fun day-hiking or backpacking.
The final highlight of the day was the PCT’s ascent of a mountain known as The Nipple. The name lives up to the visuals, the mountain does look like a well-formed breast. As I scaled the slopes a cold wind began to howl against me. It made the climb tougher and, unless I’m mistaken, the end of The Nipple appeared to be a bit firmer and more erect the colder it got!
Day 10 – The Nipple to Bendon Meadows (18 Miles)
I met two more thru-hikers, Stretch and Grasshopper. Stretch is a girl from Seattle and Grasshopper a dude from Wisconsin. I didn’t get too much time hiking with either of them because they were in a rush to get to showers and meals in South Lake Tahoe.
At Carson Pass on Highway 88, I met two cyclists who had just summited and wanted their picture taken next to the sign. When I asked one of the guys where he was headed he replied with dramatic pause, that they were riding to Virginia. “Yorktown I gather?” I replied, catching he and his buddy completely off-guard. I went on to explain that I myself had ridden my bike across America before. Been there, done that. Yada yada yada. I told them hiking the PCT was a tougher endeavor. I can be mean sometimes.
I was also able to make a few calls at Carson Pass at the Welcome Center. Nice place and nice folks. They warned me about the Tahoe fire, though it looked like it was close to be contained at last word. The smoke was very evident throughout the area. I sure hope a backpacker didn’t start that fire.
The rest of the day was a relaxing hike. I was tempted to hurry and head to South Lake Tahoe as well, but I in the end I was happy to finish a little short. I found an incredible campsite just three miles from the Highway 50 summit. I’ll definitely be coming back here with friends. Are you my friend?
Day 11- Bendon Meadows to Gilmour Lake (15 Miles)
After an early start courtesy of a mosquito-driven alarm clock, I crossed Highway 50 and eventually found my way to the Echo Lake Resort, a trailside establishment located in South Lake Tahoe. The resort is a nice place with good sandwiches and milkshakes. I was able to mail and re-mail a package as well as pick up some groceries.
The real story at Echo Lakes was a chance to meet a bunch of thru-hikers at the same time. By far the most entertaining were a pair of brothers from Chelsea, Michigan, trail names Diesel and Hammer. Both had hiked all the way from Mexico and it was apparent that all of the miles had made them a little slap happy. Diesel has kind of a Jeff Foxworthy presence about him, and he was ranting and raving about why he should quit the trail. People were laughing so hard at his observations they couldn’t get a word in to convince him otherwise.
I made the long, hot climb at of Echo Lake at a decent pace, and decided to end the day a little early near Lake Gilmour. I am still having trouble sleeping and I’m experimenting with different padding configurations to make it work.
Day 12 – Gilmour Lake to Alpine Meadows (33 Miles – Personal Record!)
Some days everything comes together: an early start, a very light pack, strong legs, beautiful weather, nice trail, and the will to make something big happen. Today I set a personal record, backpacking 33 miles, while covering some amazing country. I think the biggest difference is that now I am really cutting unnecessary weight out of my pack (no more stove and cook kit for instance). This allows me to run up and down climbs in a very comfortable fashion. I plan on making even more changes in the upcoming break at the Clarks’ place in Sacramento.
The highlight of the day was a five mile hike along a knife-edge ridge approaching the Alpine Meadows ski resort. I witnessed amazing views of the lake and surrounding peaks the whole way. How different this place looks in the summertime compared to the winter when the slopes are packed with skiers!
The will to do such a long hike came from my eagerness in seeing Becky at Donner Pass. By finishing a day earlier than planned I will be able to take an extra day to heal up in Sacramento.
I hiked until after the sun set and used my headlamp to find a meadowy campsite. My sleeping bag got wet but held its temperature protection throughout the night.
Day 13 – Alpine Meadows to Donner Pass (21 Miles)
The dash to Donner Pass started at 5:30 in the morning. I was extremely sore from the long day before so I tossed in a Vicodin mid-morning to help out. Hiking along the slopes of Squaw Valley was cool. As I passed Granite Chief I paid homage to the many great snowboarding days I had experienced in his presence.
More amazing knife-edge hiking today, and all of this is just a few miles from Donner Pass – day hikers of the world get yourself out here! The descent down the slopes of Sugar Bowl was a tough one with ankle breaker rocks at every turn. I made it to Donner Pass Road and borrowed a girl’s cell phone to call Becky and let her know I would be at I-80 in around an hour.
I was expecting the remaining three miles would be easy but of course they were not. I met a day hiker named Gil towards the end who, seeing that I was in quite a bit of discomfort with the Vicodin wearing off, offered to drive me to the Boreal Inn rendezvous point once we were off the trail.
Becky at last! Damn it was good to see her! And we stopped at Ikeda’s in Auburn for burgers, pie, and good trail foods. I grabbed a shower at the Clarks in Granite Bay before I would let anyone greet me (Becky was quick to point out upon meeting me that my aroma was not fit for civilization). Dinner at the Clark’s was some delicious Chinese food, a lot of it.
Days 14, 15, 16 – Granite Bay, CA (0 Miles)
Yep, decided to take some time off. I have a lot of strategizing to do and my body needs the extra down time. It looks like I also caught a bout of Giardia on the trail (I’ll spare you the details), but fortunately the Kaiser doctor gave me a prescription for antibiotics before the lab results came back!
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